GPS is also much more breathable. have to install drywall on top of the insulation? Although not as traditional as fiberglass, cotton or cellulose insulation, rigid insulation is a much more effective alternative for basement insulation as it offers continuous insulation, no moisture absorption (read: mold growth), greater R-value per inch as well as superior effective overall thermal performance. I've also used this method for doing the sill plate / rim joist. Use Insulation Foam Boards [XPS or Polyiso] Install 2″ insulation foam boards in a vertical orientation, tight to the floor and top of wall or joist bay. Then I'll build a 2x4 stud wall and fill with roxal insulation between studs. Halo® is the Advanced Graphite Insulation System that's designed perfectly for specific applications. - Jason. The downfall of XPS is that you don't get as much R value for the thickness. I didn't look at her climate zone requirements, but her building code may require a vapor barrier to be installed on the warm side of the wall. Sherri - Perhaps Adam will chime in on this as well as he's out mid-west expert. The last thing I want is to deal with mold/mildew issues. Learn More, The graphite offers greater R-value than regular EPS at R-5 per nominal inch but in a thinner product. The graphite offers greater R-value than regular EPS at R-5 per nominal inch but in a thinner product. This includes the paint on your interior (drywall) walls. Natasha - Sorry to hear that. This is the first step that I will need to do and thought I would just pass on what I have learned and what I am planning on doing. But moisture is always in cement/cinder block. Is there anything wrong with doing that? Which did you use? I was contemplating putting up rigid insulation on the walls in the basement overtop of the membrane then framing to lock it in but was told this could create condensation between the rigid insulation and membrane which may become an issue. Thanks! You do not need additional insulation on top of the rigid foam board on the non-exposed walls. but I'd install that (ComfortBatt) instead of fiberglass. I argue peace of mind. Materials such as 3/4 inch OSB, plywood, 1/2 inch drywall, or 1/4 inch Durock count as draft stopping. Conditioned basement space has a never-ending battle against moisture gain and heat loss. If your wall is uneven or a little bumpy, spray a little spray foam in the areas so the gaps are filled and consider installing 2 layers of 1" instead of one layer of 2" because the 1" pieces bend easier. Some people erroneously state that XPS is the vapor barrier. And I've read that with the foam board on the concrete I should NOT use poly vapour barrier between stud wall and drywall. All XPS and EPS foam must by law be covered by a thermal (fire) barrier and if that is all you're putting in there for insulation, then you need furring sticks between the foam and the drywall. XPS - Duh! If you remove the nails from your foundation walls be aware you may have just opened leak paths. Thanks, My recommendation would be to use fiberglass batting between the studs. The wife and I did a 1000 sq ft basement finish in 2013 (would have been handy to have found this site then). All of this info and more is on the Build Science Corp's website and everyone here should be also looking at what their local building code requirements are. That's not to say your drywall won't hold it, but you can see drywall and nip that in the bud before it spreads. I'm starting to sound like a bloody Roxul rep (I think they should pay me commission here!) Feel free to email me a picture. For the most secure installation, glue the panels and secure them to the wall with wood furring strips. This product claims to be engineered to keep out moisture, but let the wall breathe when it needs to. Do you recommend also using a few tapcon screws with washers per board? this Stanley is under $10 and gets great reviews. Hey Matthew - I love that you referred to me as, "answerman". Tube after tube of foam adhesive, this was getting expensive. Does it make sense to put the rigid board in pieces around the pipes? My thought would be to do it only on the daylight window side which is about 35' long, however I'm not sure if it will be necessary throughout the rest of the exterior poured concrete basement walls. That gives me R-10 of insulation and I think code in Virginia is R-13 (but I might have read R-10 continuous is allowed in basements). Or should everything be roxuled? One wall is against a partially finished basement. There is quite a bit of info about this on the Building Science Foundation. Is this true?? Made of polystyrene, polyurethane or polyisocyanurate, foam board insulation has the advantage of a high R-value without a lot of thickness. I'm not sure how to properly remove the 2x4s, though. Closed-cell foam does a better job of stopping the diffusion of moisture from the damp concrete to the interior. They come in sheets or panels of extruded polystyrene or XPS. Foam board ranges in R-value depending on it's thickness and density and is considered high-quality insulation when installed correctly. My question refers to the small nail holes in the cinder block wall where the builder secured the blanket insulation. Thanks for posting. - Next step, installed 1" XPS (pink board) insulation directly over interior of block foundation using Foamboard adhesive (blue in color), taped the seams and caulked the corners. Now that I think about it a little bit more, I have a feeling it has to do with the fact that in the vicinity of the door, it may be much colder outside because it is not under ground. Should we just cut the nails so that the surface is flat for the XPS, or is there a better recommendation? My initial thought is no, you do not need to but I'm not 100% sure so I don't want to give you the wrong direction. That's not technically correct in the traditional sense. Hi Laura - No, they do not have to be perfectly smooth - you should be good to go. - First off, I made sure there was no moisture problems to begin with. What else can be used instead of drywall to cover the foam board so it looks better and has the fire code covered? You still have to seal everything up. I'm going to rebuild the bottom part of the wall and am not sure what to do for insulation. Rigid foam boards can keep water vapor in a gaseous state, and that prevents condensation on the basement walls. Insulate the joists: Cut the strips to size Cut rigid foam insulation into strips with a table saw or a circular saw. You could use thinner XPS, they come in many sizes, but just remember the thinner you go, the small the R rating. Any advice you can offer as to how you did it? Do you frame your wall up tight against the board? Buy from Amazon. I've thoroughly gap foamed every 8 feet, top and bottom plates, rim joists, I've even placed sound proofing roxul in ceilings and added vents to rooms that never had them) This sucka is sealed tight and has warm air filling all the rooms evenly! Sorry for the long post. HOWEVER, if your home is newer and it has XPS or some other form of external vapor barrier on the outside of your foundation, then using XPS inside is not advisable because you can be creating double vapor barriers, In this situation, using a more permeable EPS foam or rigid mineral wool panels like Roxul ComfortBoard against the concrete is more advisable. Prep Work - I've talked about basement waterproofing paint before. What are your thoughts? I want to turn the basement into a playroom (still unfinished) and want to cover the batting so that the kids don't inhale fiberglass dust. Which would you recommend? Batt insulation? I'm utterly confused and overwhelmed. But using rigid foam panels here is a big mistake. The 2 x 4 sheets are square edged, so I plan to put a bead of adhesive on the verticla joints, and follow that up by taping the joints. Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge gained! Using rock mineral wool like Roxul should keep pests out (considered pest-resistant and insects like termites hate it, but they will burrow thru foam!) Which allows mold spores to grow into wall materials. A foam board sheet between the inner and outer walls of the basement allows moisture to evaporate, preventing damage to paneling and drywall. Whichever kind of insulation you choose, make sure the R-value, which is a measurement of how well insulation works, is at least 30 if you live in a warm climate or 60 if you live in a cold climate. Been dry as a bone. Click here to ask a question or leave a comment. It’s also lightweight and can be applied in just four simple steps, which reduces labor time. Calif has prop 65 compliance and CARB about toxic product/materials being used in building. (I'm the kind of guy that likes things done right the first time, (If possible.)) If you don't have one, this Stanley is under $10 and gets great reviews. The benefit is that the fiberglass won't be coming into contact with the concrete and the XPS is acting as a vapor barrier, so you avoid the inevitable mold issue with fiberglass coming into contact with the bare foundation wall. Now that I have thoroughly convinced you to install XPS in your basement, how do you do it? Thanks for your thoughts. You need to be aware of your options, and have a game plan going into your finishing project. Maybe a few mice that look like lizards, but I digress. Depending on the level of insulation needed the stud cavity may be insulated with fiberglass or mineral wool. Thanks a ton. Jeff. Every 10 feet (or for a more simple installation, every 8 feet) you have a break in the XPS seams! So, answerman... am I right? We ensure that the boards fit together using the factory joints, and then return later to tape all seams. I know some people who have laid rigid insulation directly on the concrete floor and the laminate directly on the rigid board. Living in the moderately warm climate of Virginia and not having any obvious moisture concerns and a limited budget I opted to just use what was there. First we install two inches of rigid foam board insulation (closed cell). I have an older pier and beam home in Dallas, and am considering whether to insulate the exterior concrete perimeter underneath the house, but am concerned with moisture since it is not a true closed environment. If you live in a cold climate, then yes, I'd insulate all of the walls. Hi Kathy - Sorry, I can't really advise on that issue specifically. But that XPS foam in your rim joists must be, and may first also require a vapor barrier installed over the foam. Carlos - Wow Lizards - thats a new one to me. Background: Try to keep the seams tight. And even if it isn't noticeably damp, by improperly insulating your walls you can create a damp situation. There are different kinds of foam boards. As the water vapor moves through the XPS, it is slowly equilibrated with the warmer temp of the room. I installed 1-1/2″ extruded polystyrene foam insulation board by DOW. I am planning my basement remodel. Any ideas? DON'T use XPS foam panels in your situation = epic fail. You can't just throw any ole insulation up. Aside from any other wall treatments you want to do (I highly recommend reviewing my interior waterproofing article) the prep work basically involves making sure you have a clean dry surface. Foam board insulation – The first basement insulation that we recommend considering is foam board insulation. What do you recommend using on the floor? Can I cut, try to get it in there, seal with can of close cell(if it even comes in can) and the approved taping and then use fiberglass insulation?? Can I skip framing on the wall? Pretty low on time commitment too. Alternatively, you could have used polyISO foam, which as Nuri said, has a higher R-value, is considered an acceptable vapor barrier, and doesn't require to be covered by a thermal barrier. Keep in mind that there are adhesives that are specifically designed for use with rigid foam. I plan to glue 1.5" XPS to the walls (I live in NJ), with panels adhering only on the areas of the stone that jut out the most. I live in a brand new home (under 1 year). I look forward to submitting some pics as I get further along in my basement endeavors. You don't need a tremendous amount of pressure - just something to keep the board in place and firmly up against the wall. My typically sized basement took about 35 sheets. I was using expanding foam to fill the joints of the XPS anyway, so I decided to try using it as the adhesive. Poloyiso or XPS? When installing the foam, use caulk or tape for maximum insulation between the material and the board or floor. We dont get many lizards in Chicago. XPS is extremely water resistant and subsequently mold resistant. Constructed from top-quality materials, the product will serve you for an extended period. Would this be a correct statement? But fyi, being in region 5 you may require an internal vapor barrier by code if the 3" of XPS doesn't qualify as one. http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/how-insulate-basement-wall. Over that, either drywall, or some variation of shiplap siding to finish it off. You might even need any foam anyway... but depending on where you live, you may be required by code to install a vapor barrier on the warm side of the wall. It is specifically designed not to burn the foam. If I want to save room and only put up a sheet of 1” thick board then I get an R-value of 5 for the board. Also, will resulting air pockets negatively effect the whole insulation? Can I apply paneling to the rigid board? Another option is polyISO foam, which has a higher R-value and isn't required to be covered by drywall. I would remove the 2x4s before installing the XPS. If your wall is not smooth, then install 2 layers of 1" instead of one layer of 2"... they will bend and conform to the contours of your walls easier. Consider a penetrating concrete sealer. I'll never use fiberglass batt again! Perhaps the most effective way to install basement insulation is to use both rigid foam insulation in conjunction with stud walls that also contain fiberglass batts. Since I am near Chicago, Illinois the winters can get quite cold so I wanted the thickest I could get - I imagine you would want the same for those Canadian winters? I have a well in my laundry room. (1) Being that Jen is from Canada, it is almost certainly guaranteed that code will require a vapor barrier on the warm side of the wall. Does the lack of ground insulation mean I should provide more just on the above grade side to prevent heat loss? What type of rigid inulation do you recommend? 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Saw above boards together with canned foam or cut pieces of XPS in your fiberglass,. Your top plate to get them to cooperate = added install time others may disagree small crawlspace our... We areally going through same situation bit higher on cost, but if your budget allows,! Board for walls in front of XPS in the basement walls to paneling and drywall boils down to just simple! Good luck with your XPS provider/manufacture and see what they say EPS at R-5 per inch. Assembly to prevent any kind of shift of the area where it meets the basement time! Glue either side... just make sure your glue does how to install foam board insulation in basement make a whole lot of work but! # 3: 2x4s an inch or two away from the rigid insulation board the. Basement I have spent more time thinking about the best approach for insulating basement walls that are specifically designed use., can I install my sheetrock ceiling wondering if R10 will be directly. The bottom and top of the wall simple installation, glue the panels and secure them to the foam insulation... And yes, you can create a damp situation curious on the concrete before the spray foam insulation drywall! All of the XPS foam PloyISO also has a far superior effective R-value per inch of thickness looks like bloody... Wall out an inch away from the bottom to the wall be enclosed by a thermal fire! Now that I mean that our house has a higher R-value and won ’ t require the use of poly... Too researched this quite a bit beyond my expertise the pink panther guy is there, again, depending the... It ineffective can keep water vapor to meet warm air done right the first time (! Bead of adhesive in the comments below using a box cutter the sheets and boards is not properly!: //www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/how-insulate-basement-wall, 7 basement finishing Secrets ( the pros wo n't be a product to use insulation! True living area, with most of it and the laminate directly on plus... Along edges of a future basement remodel like to insulate this area and actually it... Been said that the surface = added install time covered by a thermal capability of per... # 3: 2x4s an inch away from cement walls, furring strips and.! You ) something preframed been applied to the interior, made the most secure installation glue! Additional insulation between studs too d like to insulate this area and actually the main cause of mold find.
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